MILAN, Italy — Even those paid to track the latest wave of designer arrivals, launches, and departures need to think carefully before defining what’s unfolding in the creative world of Stella Jean.
After a three-year hiatus during which she withdrew from Milan’s official schedule (to note: back in 2020, Jean was a vocal advocate during the Black Lives Matter movement, rallying and marching against the lack of support for designers of colour in Italy), she returned with two political slogans woven into her latest collection. But more on that shortly. Judging from this season, her ambition to clear the slate and write a fresh new identity for the brand has come to fruition.
Perhaps unsurprisingly, there are echoes of her earlier work, with a tendency toward complex, wrap-and-tie silhouettes. Finely sculpted headpieces, body-hugging gowns, bold maxi prints, and intricate embroidery all played a role in the mix.
“I said I would be back when I had something to say,” Jean told reporters backstage. “And this season, we returned with two law proposals: the first to highlight pieces that are works of art, because the paintings and embroidery featured in the collection were created by artists,” she explained. “In June, an excellent law was passed: all works of art purchased are deductible at five percent,” she noted.
“I began my work on the other side of the world with low-income communities, to safeguard their cultural heritage,” she continued. “Now, I find myself facing the same problem in Italy, where we no longer have artisans—especially among younger generations—willing to carry on the craft. There are no easy solutions, and we can’t pay them less, since artisans are already paid so little.”
“There are six products conceived in Bhutan, the result of a co-creation with local communities,” Jean added, when asked about this season’s offerings. “So there are also artisans and artists who worked with me at 3,000 meters above sea level,” she concluded.
by Chidozie Obasi