The pool at Finca Cortesin

Our trip began with dinner at El Jardin de Lutz. They call this the more casual restaurant and indeed, it feels relaxed. The food, however, is anything but – dish after dish was presented, each singing of the region’s exceptional produce. The dessert, quite unusually, may have been my highlight. Olive oil ice cream, local lemon and toast created a light, singular dish that was almost savoury.

Hotel Cortesin pool long view – Finca Cortesin

I began the following morning in the indoor saltwater pool. The hotel, despite being expansive, still exudes a feeling of privacy. Each time I swam, I was one of the only people around, almost as if it was my own private pool. I breakfasted soon after, enjoying eggs royale from the à la carte menu plus a menagerie of smaller side dishes, including fruit, jamon and local cheeses.

Hotel Cortesin Junior Suite – Finca Cortesin

After a quick look around the gallery, I returned to the spa area for an hour-long massage. The hotel offers a number of treatments and is very flexible to the needs of its clientele – the style and timings of treatments are worked around you.

Hotel Cortesin garden – Finca Cortesin

That evening we ate at Kabuki Raw, the hotel’s Michelin-starred Japanese restaurant. Again, we enjoyed a tasting menu with countless plates of sashimi, plus fried oysters and fresh scallops. The meal culminated in a plate of nigiri – eight pieces, all different, with highlights including the seared beef, raw-pink in the middle, and mackerel with truffle.

Hotel Cortesin building with flowers

For more casual dining, one might opt instead for the beach restaurant, which serves Spanish classics such as paella and fried anchovies in the most refined form. Following dinner, I returned for a final evening to my beautifully appointed room. As with the rest of the hotel, in the rooms, every detail has been carefully considered. Maximalist wallpaper and interesting art pieces set it apart from the usual, stripped-bare hotel room, and make it feel more like home. The large bedroom, which includes a small living area, makes way for a spacious terrace, walled off for privacy. The bathroom is big too – with a luxurious bathtub and heated floors. With all this, you’d be forgiven for not wanting to leave, and indeed the next day, as I got into the car for the airport, I vowed to return as soon as possible.

by Becky Zanker

The post Beautiful, stylish and delicious: Finca Cortesin, Spain, is a treat for the senses first appeared on The Glass Magazine.

LAST week we were invited to a private dinner hosted by the region of South Tyrol. One of the area’s foremost chefs, Egon Heiss, who cut his teeth at Gordon Ramsay’s restaurants and has himself earned a Michelin Star for his work at Bad Schörgau, provided the evening’s refined and thoroughly contemporary meal. We started with canapes – all reflective of the singular region in the north of Italy.

A view of beautiful South Tyrol

A creamy elderberry and pine morsel, frozen in front of me with liquid nitrogen, spoke of the area’s snowy mountains and dense pine forests. A quail egg, deep fried and delightfully soft in the centre, suggested the warmth of ski cabins, while a frothy, cold cappuccino of forest herbs alluded to the abundant greenery that surrounds locals and visitors to South Tyrol alike.

A view of South Tyrol

Shortly we were seated for dinner and another of the area’s specialities was presented to us. This time, in the form of an actual piece of forest pine. We were asked to close our eyes and feel, smell and, finally, taste the pine. The idea was to offer us a small dose of one of South Tyrol’s increasingly popular activities – forest bathing. As the area is so richly populated by pine forests, it’s the perfect place to partake in this particular form of meditation. A growing number of people are finding peace and calm in the activity.

Cheese from South Tyrol

Suitability pacified, we were served a three-course feast, courtesy of Heisse, who had brought ingredients fresh from the region to include. The lamb main course was particularly special with beautiful seasonal vegetables providing a fresh and colourful complement to the seared meat.

Meditation in South Tyrol

It’s easy to deduce, from such an evening, the veritable feast for all senses that awaits visitors to the South Tyrol region – an area rich with natural resource but somehow relatively untouched. Get there before the masses.

by Becky Zanker

Bad Schörgau, I-39058 Sarentino, South Tyrol, Italy,
Email: info@bad-schoergau.com
Tel: +39 0471 623048,

The post Glass discovers the art of forest bathing and dining in South Tyrol first appeared on The Glass Magazine.

IT’S 5am and I’m half-awake on the second floor of a large, stilt-legged villa in the middle of the raging, unabashed Indian Ocean. I can hear the waves crashing against the walls and the wind whistling, furious and out of tune. I go back to sleep. By 6am, the storm’s forgotten and the beginnings of a hot, sunny day are starting to paint the sky a pale yellow. The doors at the back of my villa open onto a sort of patio – it has a bed and a table with chairs, and a little set of steps that lead, invitingly, into the shallow, now-serene sea. It’s hot, so I step in and start, cautiously, to swim out. From the sand just a few feet in front of me emerges a majestic black ray, almost a metre long, who floats elegantly away, it’s wings rippling in the water.

By 7am, I’m at a sunrise yoga class on the pale, powdery sand. Como Cocoa Island – and the other resorts in the Como family – has a focus on wellbeing, and that extends to every part of the experience, from the meals to the activities. They call it Shambhala, and it’s the axis around which the islands spin. For breakfast, for example, one might choose to simply enjoy the buffet of fresh tropical fruit and pastries or, instead, order from the menu which includes traditional Maldivian dishes and healthy Shambhala options. On the bright, balmy Maldivian mornings it’s easy to opt for the latter. There are beautiful wicker chairs on the sand outside the restaurant that blend seamlessly into the luscious and abundant greenery all around.

Boardwalk Maldives

Later that day I was to start my Shambhala wellness path. A little way from the restaurant, through the trees on a quiet, sandy path, is the spa area. This, too, melts into its environment. A thatched, wood-floored hut serves as the main reception. There I wait for my first treatment, a full-body aromatherapy massage followed by reflexology, with one of the resorts’ signature teas in hand. The private treatment hut, just across from the reception, has a large, floor-to-ceiling window that looks across the lapping, cerulean sea. I can’t help but fall asleep almost straightaway. Tomorrow, I’ll come back to this same hut for the concluding part of my wellness path – an Indian head massage, a manicure and a pedicure. Guests can choose how to split their paths – spreading them across multiple days if they wish.

As morning emerged, I decided to take my snorkel and flippers (the resort provides them) and head out to the reefs. I left from the back of my villa, not another human soul around, and swam a little way out. Before I knew it, the sea burst into a lively scene of tropical fish – some in magnificent schools, others alone or with a partner, dipping in and out of coral. If you swim out further, the fish get bigger, more colourful and the population of them denser. Eventually, you’ll reach an incredible drop – the edge of the reef – the ocean beyond there is dark and a little daunting, but enchanting nonetheless. The resort recommends remaining within the reef and, for those who’d prefer to be accompanied, offers guided snorkelling trips.

Water Villa

Later that morning, I packed my things and prepared to leave for one of Como’s other island resorts – Maalifushi. There are frequent seaplane trips between the islands and back to the mainland, and getting from one to the other only takes around 50 minutes. The tiny, 10-seat craft skims above the water and then rises just high enough to see the innumerable reefs marking inky dark circles in the water. Riding in a sea plane gives one an idea of the sheer magnitude of the country – which is made up of over 1000 islands that stretch far and wide across the perfectly blue sea south of India. After some time, the villas of Maalifushi came into sight and, for a few moments, we got a perfect view of them, with their private pools, from the sky.

Beach villa

We landed some way away on the middle of the sea, and then hopped on a speedboat to the reception. Maalifushi is somewhat larger than Cocoa Island, so offers a different experience altogether. We each rode in a golf buggy to our villas, which again were placed off land via an elevated, wooden bridge. The sleek, light-filled apartments spread generously from left to right.

On one side, the enormous living room is punctuated with beautiful crafts that speak of local tradition – wooden bowls of tropical fruit, pieces of pottery and wicker lampshades. In the middle, the bedroom sits beneath a tall, beamed ceiling and, on the other side, the vast bathroom hosts a Jacuzzi-sized marble bath tub.

From anywhere in the apartment, one can open up the tall windows and walk onto the outside decking. There, you’ll find an outside shower, a private pool and a double-sized sunbed that begs to lounged upon as you watch the hot, rosy sunsets each evening.

Shark in the Maldives

After a quick look around, I dressed for lunch. The main mode of transport on Maalifushi is bicycle, and the resort provides each guest with their own, so it was a quick ride across the bridges and through the jungle to the casual beach restaurant, Thila. There, fresh, local seafood is available in many colourful guises along with other laidback dishes. It’s easy to while away a few hours at lunch, but I had other ideas.

Quickly after finishing, I walked over to the water sports centre to hire a kayak. Just off Maalifushi is a tiny, entirely uninhabited castaway island. I paddled over to there in my kayak, parked on the beach and swam a little in the water – feeling as if was the only person in the world. Guests can rent time on the island and spend an afternoon there with a picnic, or a more lavish arrangement, if they wish. All they need do is arrange to be collected later.

Dinner later was at another of the island’s restaurants, Tai, which serves Japanese-inspired cuisine in refined surroundings. There’s a regular marine biology demonstration here, which serves as lovely pre-dinner entertainment. It’s especially special for those with children, as there’s an opportunity to feed the large sharks, who come swimming into the open area in the middle of the restaurant right on cue. Dinner was a feast of sushi, sashimi and other Japanese-style dishes with plenty of champagne and sparkling sake. There’s green tea ice cream for dessert, if you can manage it, and then, luckily, only a short walk back to the villas.

The next morning, I was scheduled to join a boat trip out into the sea to snorkel in an area known for turtle sightings. We weren’t disappointed, after some searching, a charming creature emerged from the rocks below and started to slowly circle towards the surface. Maalifushi offers regular trips like this – with marine biologists on board who can offer their expertise as well as guide you to the right place to spot the animals. Just as the turtle dipped back to the seabed, its colours blending into the coral below, a car-sized eagle ray flew by beside us. In just a few seconds it, too, disappeared into the watery distance.

Maalifushi Villa

Back to the island for our final evening, and we enjoyed a sunset ride on Cameron, the island’s private yacht. Again, the area’s enigmatic wildlife cooperated, and we were treated to a show by a 100-strong pod of spinner dolphins as we sipped champagne on the upper deck. For those looking for the most premium of experiences, a ride on Cameron is not to be missed. Guests can rent the magnificent, 68-foot vessel for just a few hours or for an extended trip.

It was then, with regret, that I enjoyed my final meal in The Maldives. This time, a beautiful dinner of lobster on the sand – with the flickering of fruit bats against the infinite, star-filled sky reminding me of the simple majesty of nature, and decorating my last evening in the most fitting way.

by Becky Zanker

The post Glass discovers wild beauty in The Maldives first appeared on The Glass Magazine.

IT’S days after midsummer on Sweden’s westerly coast, and the evenings are a bright, translucent blue. Slipens Hotell is as close as you can get to coast without swimming – though you can do that if you want to – and the sun is still sending pale yellow flecks into the water at 11pm. The air is pleasantly cold and windless. I’ve just come from dinner at Brygghuset, the hotel’s restaurant. Seafood is prolific here – we’d had a herring buffet and shellfish soup for lunch, and dinner was scallops followed by a generous portion of freshly caught, local hake.

The exterior of Slipens Hotell

We’d had time to work up an appetite in between the two, kayaking with Christina from Kayak in Grundsund along the quiet, windy coastline. The water’s a clean, stormy blue and you can see the occasional jellyfish or jewellery-box starfish floating by, indifferently, in the current. The fresh, salty air is enough to galvanise even the most amateur kayaker into action, and it didn’t take us long to work up a rhythm, following Christina around wave-dented pockets of raw, untouched land. Halfway through, we pulled into the rocky shallows close to a miniature cliff edge. It was indented enough to block the wind somewhat, so we could pass around the hot black coffee and cinnamon buns she pulled out of a compartment in the front of her kayak.

Kayaking in Sweden. Photograph: Henrik Trygg

There’s something so much better about coffee when you’re in the middle of nowhere, with aching arms and sea spray in your hair. Kayaking is one of the most commonly enjoyed pursuits in this part of Sweden, and it’s easy to see why. After another 30 minutes we were back to the dock we started at, mastering stop turns, doused in seawater, and very reluctant to get back onto dry land. Back to Slipens, and I fit in a quick walk around the village before dinner. The colourful little houses that lined the quaint, winding streets had eye-level windows filled with the type of Scandinavian paraphernalia you’d see in an old cartoon.

A room at Slipens Hotell

These are mostly summer houses, and I saw just one or two other people out. Indeed, staying at Slipens, you’d be forgiven for not wanting to leave your room at all. Each is individually designed, loosely themed around a notable character from the area. My room had two emerald-coloured cocktail chairs at the foot of its impossibly comfortable bed. The mattress, arguably the best I’ve ever slept on, was from a local brand called Carpe Diem.

Gullmarsstrand bedrooms

The following morning we packed our bags and headed to the area’s other luxury residence. Gullmarsstrand is much bigger than Slipens, so offers an entirely different atmosphere despite its proximity. One of the highlights here is the spa area, which guests rent out privately for an hour at a time. It’s a quaint wooden hut that sits right over the water. A dip in the sea is encouraged, even on chillier days, and at the back there are steps right down into the water. It felt incredibly Scandinavian to crawl through the cool, swaying sea and pull myself up onto the wooden raft, designed for diving, that was set just away from the hut.

The spa at Gullmarsstrand

And this bracing little interval made the large outdoor hot tub on the deck all the more inviting. After 20 minutes in there, I was ready for the sea again and then, very quickly, the indoor sauna which has views over the water and across to the ragged, mist-cloaked archipelagos in the distance.

Kayaking in Sweden. Photograph: Henrik Trygg

Also on the agenda that day was a boat ride with Lars and Adriaan, local fisherman who, to my delight, specialised in the catching of oysters and mussels. Their little boat careered confidently through a tempestuous sea that threw itself on board with every turn. We sailed past islands, moss-green and sparsely populated but for the occasional deep-red dot of a person’s small summer hut or tag-along fishing boat. After 30 minutes or so, and entirely soaked, we arrived on their tiny, and very windy, private island. It was rocky and unforgiving – deep, stone-wedged inclines and the half-cracked shells of crabs and oysters making a mosaic of the floor.

Small fishing shack on the cliffs. Photograph: Jonas In

A little wooden hut with fur rugs and a hot fire served as a good windbreaker; we sat behind it and ate oysters that they’d caught that morning. After that, a huge pot of hot, buttery mussels emerged and we all ate hearty portions as the sea crackled against the grey, salt-striped crags a few feet away. Back to drier land and we visited, briefly, the Havets Hus aquarium, which is filled with local sea life, then drove back to Gullmarsstrand for dinner. This time it was scallops followed by steak, with a distractingly beautiful view of the dark-honey sun setting over the sea entirely visible through the transparent walls.

Gothenburg

After such a departure from cosmopolitan life, one might like to spend a night or two in Gothenburg before heading home. It’s about an hour and half away by car and, while not quite as remote and picturesque as the coast, is still laden with Scandi charm. In the centre of the city, an orderly set of parallel-running streets give way to secret, candle filled courtyards that house cool restaurants, bars and cafes. Walk through Haga for a giant cinnamon bun and a dip into one of the many interior-design shops, then onto the fish market for a smorgasbord of delicious local seafood. In terms of accommodation, the Comfort Hotel is a good choice, as it’s so central and has a large roof terrace that’s nice enough to draw in tourists and locals alike.

After whiling away a few hours perusing homewares, I took a quick tram over to Majorna, an emerging, artsy neighbourhood, for a coffee. It’s a grungy spot, without the gloss of the centre, offering, perhaps, a more authentic taste of the city. That evening, my final night in Sweden, I passed Majorna again, this time by boat, on my way to Sjömagasinet. It has a Michelin star, and for good reason. The large salad starter was topped with a generous portion of lobster, while the main course, an enormous fillet of flounder coated in rich brown butter could not easily be surpassed.

by Becky Zanker

Direct flights to Gothenburg operate from Birmingham airport with bmi. All fares are inclusive of 23kg hold luggage, complimentary drinks and snacks on board, allocated seating and 30-minute check-ins. Fares from Birmingham to Gothenburg with bmi regional cost from £88 one way.

Double rooms in Slipens Hotell start from approx. £160 per night.

Double rooms at Gullmarsstrand start from approx. £180 per night.

The post Glass visits Fiskebäckskil, Sweden for local seafood, fishing trips and kayaking first appeared on The Glass Magazine.

IN Florence, one can hardly turn their head without seeing another piece of Renaissance art, an ancient sculpture or an awe-struck, camera-wielding tourist. It’s true that this is a destination that attracts the masses, and quite rightly, because it’s beautiful, but it doesn’t mean you can’t find places that feel a bit more unique.

The gardens at NYU’s Florence campus

I’ll start with my hotel: the five-star Westin Excelsior, with enormous baroque-style mirrors and wall-high oil paintings lining every hall and bringing the city’s grandeur into every room and suite, is a sanctuary that reflects its city. Here, you can connect with Florence away from the crowds. In the dining room, for example, a pianist plays while you eat and reminds you that here, art is everywhere. And, in your room, as you open the floor-to-ceiling curtains, you’re confronted with your own personal postcard: an uninterrupted view of, if you’re lucky, the famous Arno river.

The restoration centre

Venturing out you must, of course, visit the most renowned attractions. A good place to start? Museo dell’Opera del Duomo museum, the home of many works originally created for the grand Duomo. Here you can see Ghiberti’s magnificent Gates of Paradise. Note the ingenuity of their design as your peer at them over schoolchildren: the story depicted, told as a sequence on each panel, starts two panels up – so you needn’t miss much, even if you are contending with bobbing heads.

The Acton’s villa, now NYU

There’s something special about that; it’s just as it would have been hundreds of years ago. At the moment, you can also see some of the works of Bill Viola here and see directly how they correlate with the museum’s more permanent features. By Michelangelo’s The Deposition – a sculpture of Mary holding the body of her befallen son, Jesus – we see a Viola video of people looking at something, in the distance, with shock, horror and dismay. We’re reminded of how we should be reacting to such a sculpture, which shows such a tragic event.

Restoration work

Following a visit here, it’s only a short walk to Fondazione Palazzo Strozzi, where Viola’s full exhibition Electronic Renaissance, is on display until July. This is a fitting second stop, then. They call Florence an open air museum – and with that it’s hard to imagine how modern art might fit in. Bill Viola’s does, though, because he’s able to draw on the majesty and feeling of Renaissance work, and pull it into the now. There are other places that do this too. NYU’s Florence campus is one of them, and a place off the beaten track.

 Bill Viola, The Greeting

Here, students from around the world can become part of the Florence and, often, weave their own thread into the tapestry of the city. The university is made up of a number of villas originally belonging to the prominent Acton family. The main building, Villa La Pietra, is perfectly preserved with the family’s personal collection still laid out as it was when they lived and entertained there. Students enjoy lectures among early Italian paintings, baroque furniture and Renaissance sculptures.

They live and dine in the estate’s other villas, and find their inspiration in the acres of perfectly manicured, Renaissance gardens that are a joy to walk through. When the Acton’s lived there, the area in the garden used as a stage hosted performers from across the world, including some of the most famous actors of the time. Now, theatre students perform their final show there – and performers such as the Royal Shakespeare Company put on plays for all, including former Presidents of the United States and the English Royal Family.

 Bill Viola, Observance

This anachronistic branch of NYU may seem slightly obscure, but it only takes a few hours in Florence to feel inspired by its greatness. There’s so much intelligence and talent, visitors can’t help but feel the need to enrich their own intellect and skill. That’s why it’s the perfect setting for other esteemed institutions, such as the European University Institute, which educates the world’s future professors, and Opificio delle Pietre Dure, a world-leader in art restoration that hosts its own bachelors degree. At the latter, we were shown a piece of Medieval embroidery that had been damaged by a previous, less informed restoration, and was now ready to be restored again – properly, this time.

Michelangelo’s The Deposition

The degree of detail needed to amend such a piece is unfathomable. When it was made, they crafted it in such a way that the gold of the thread appeared only on the top side. Later, we also saw an enormous, unfinished da Vinci, being worked on in preparation for an upcoming unveiling. The team at the centre work carefully to restore without losing the essence of the original work. Each of these places, like the NYU campus, attract people from across the world to stay a little longer in Florence; even to make a life there.

At the English Cemetery, it’s possible to see the graves of the people who did this in the past. Elizabeth Barrett Browning, for example, who lived and died in Florence in the 1800s, holds a prominent place near the top of the cemetery’s small hill. Arthur Hugh Clough, another poet and the assistant to Florence Nightingale is buried here too, along with many others of note. Nowadays the cemetery is being maintained and preserved by a small team, including members of the Romanian Roma community who come there to work and learn.

Back to the centre of the city – and, perhaps, the centre of the guidebook – and you can’t go too far wrong with finishing your day at one of Florence’s many eateries. Alongside art and education, food is another thing that this city does especially well, and a Bistecca alla Fiorentina after a day of exploration or learning is another, equally valid way, to embrace its endless culture.

by Becky Zanker

Reserve stays at Westin Excelsior online, here.

The post Glass discovers why the art and education of Florence still fascinates first appeared on The Glass Magazine.

CHEESE, chocolate, wine: Switzerland does so many things so well. Extraordinarily beautiful landscapes is another of its fortes, as we discovered when Glass recently visited Lake Geneva.

It started on the train from the terminal to the storybook city of Lausanne. Industrial airport architecture quickly turned to sweeping views of the tranquil lake – a placid stretch of blue backed by the misty, white-topped outlines of the distant mountains. On a clear day, you can see all the way across, but there was something so delightful about seeing it all behind the lacy, translucent veil of Autumn fog.

Chalet RoyAlp and Spa, Lake Geneva, outside

Lausanne is marked by its near-800-year-old Cathedral which, with its steep spires and intricate carvings, sits high atop a series of winding, cobbled streets. It was on one of these that we took respite from the crisp, October air to enjoy what might be the best hot chocolate in the world at the now-famous Le Barbare. It was thick and rich, with the sweet, milky hum of proper Swiss chocolate – almost reason itself to visit the city.

Next, we walked down to peruse the Saturday market. A row of cheese stalls sold the ingredients for the very best homemade fondues, for those that way inclined, along with huge rounds of Swiss-speciality vacherin de mont d’or. Another row along, and the warm-butter smell of pastries permeated the air – Lausanne is a French-speaking city after all. Beyond that, the city’s permanent shops trade in even more culinary specialities including, of course, artisanal chocolates.

Bedroom at the Royal Savoy, Lausanne

Another thing Switzerland does especially well? Public transport. It’s just a few short stop and a matter of minutes between the city’s main interest points, and we were at our hotel – the grand Royal Savoy – a swift 10 after our little market visit. My room was backed by a balcony that overlooked the hotel’s gardens and, behind those, the new building and spa. In the latter I did a few laps of the bright blue pool, which is split via an electric door from its outdoor twin, before enjoying the hot tub and sauna – both of which were entirely deserted. If I hadn’t felt up to a spa visit, the bathroom in my room itself would have sufficed with its Jacuzzi-sized tub, heated floors and waterfall shower.

The Royal Savoy Lausanne, outside

The following day and we were back on a train for the hour-or-so long journey to Villars-sur-Ollon, a charming mountain village with a breath-taking altitude of 1300 metres. On the tram that wound from the train station high into the peaks,we watched as the landscape became more and more inspiring. It was just the Monday of Autumn and the vast, viridescent hills, which undulated into deep, cow-freckled valleys, were becoming umber-tipped in preparation for winter’s deep blanket of snow. Giant evergreens and pebble-filled brooks outnumbered people, who you’d glance on occasion – just far-away specks – walking a trail soon to become a ski slope. We started with a hearty, home-style lunch at a nearby restaurant and then retired to the Chalet RoyAlp Hotel and Spa for the remainder of the afternoon and evening.

The pool at the Royal Savoy

The hotel was perfect. Lodge-style furnishings – tartan carpets, fur rugs and wood-carved animals – mingled with the heady, appetising smell of bubbling fondue to create the cosiest of welcomes. From my room’s window, I could see across the magical, alpine-themed buildings to the misty mountains beyond. Here too was an impressive spa with pool, sauna and hammam to re-warm those returning from a day traversing the frost-tipped hills. In the evening we dined in the hotel’s Michelin-star-awarded Le Jardin Des Alpes. The tasting menu incorporated plenty of fresh ingredients from across Switzerland and nearby France, including a dish of large Normandy scallops with local-cheese-stuffed ravioli.

The following morning we had a private yoga lesson in the hotel, which was a lovely prelude to one of the best meals of the trip – an early lunch at Alpe Fleurie. It was the main course that really stood out here: each of us received a portion of hay-smoked chicken that was at once gastronomically singular and imbued with the comforting familiarity of home cooking. When we lifted the lid off the rustic pot it was cooked in, the warm, almost sweet smell of fresh smoke filled the air in front of us. A separate bowl of fresh, lightly cooked vegetables came on the side.

From there, we travelled back to the airport – it’s only about two hours away, despite feeling so remote. It was a short break, but with so much to experience in this little corner of Switzerland, Glass left more than satisfied.

By Becky Zanker

The post Glass explores the luxurious hotels and awe-inspiring vistas of Lake Geneva first appeared on The Glass Magazine.

FINE dining might not be the first thing that comes to mind when one thinks of Korean food – and that’s not a bad thing. Judy Joo does things a little differently, however, weaving together authenticity and elegance to form a delicious tapestry. Jinjuu, which means “pearl” in Korean, opened first in Soho and then Hong Kong. The newest location, in Mayfair, leans more heavily on the sophisticated side.

Cocktails at Jinjuu

Judy Joo founder of Jinjuu

We were sat on a large round table at the front on one of the restaurant’s opening nights; it’s dark enough inside to create an atmosphere, but not so dark we might miss our food. The cocktail list is long and whimsical, with tongue-in-cheek names and intriguing twists on classics, such as the Kimchi Bloody Mary. I went for the quite singular Double Truffle; in it, the sweet citrus of yuga danced with savoury white truffle undertones. Definitely order that. As for the food, you can’t go wrong with Korean fried chicken and Joo does it so well.

Ssam at Jinjuu

It’s not quite as spicy as some variations, but the marinade is so packed with flavour and the chicken of such a superior quality that it’s almost a shame to have to share it. Mandoo, like dumplings, come with various traditional fillings. We chose short rib and kimchi but, if we were to return, we’d certainly try the other variations. In a similar vein, if we’d have had more room, we’d have ordered something from the raw bar – scallops perhaps.

Fried chicken at Jinjuu

As for the main course, we went for something from the ssam menu. These are meat and lettuce wraps that you assemble yourself, mixing fillings and sauces to suit you. We went for the short rib, which was impossibly soft and, again, overflowing with the rich flavours of Korean spices. My only complaint would be that I’d have liked even more. We also ordered japchae – a Korean staple. It’s made with sweet potato starch noodles that, when cooked, become translucent and sticky. It’s mixed with vegetables and, sometimes, beef.

Bulgogi beef at Jinjuu

Jinjuu stays pretty close to the traditional version with its take, though you can opt to top it with prawns or chicken. It was suitably comforting, and impressively large. There’s also bibimbap on the menu, done the proper way in a hot clay pot that lets the rice crisp up as it sticks to the edges.

Snickers hotteok at Jinjuu

For dessert we went for the snickers hotteok. I’d had hotteok from a street stall in South Korea and loved it. It’s essentially a thick, piping hot pancake that burst and billows with stream as you bite into its peanut-filled middle. Jinjuu’s version is an upgrade on this with chocolate cream and nougat ice cream adding an indulgent edge. This, it seems, is what Jinjuu does so well. It’s real, nostalgic and yet entirely new – so you can enjoy it whether or not you’re familiar with Korean cuisine.

by Becky Zanker

Jinjuu 39 Albemarle Street Mayfair, London W1S 4JQ

The post Glass sits down for dinner at Judy Joo’s contemporary Korean restaurant, Jinjuu first appeared on The Glass Magazine.

A nun prays at a temple in India

I arrived on a bright, humid morning and went directly to the village-sized Ashok Hotel – a five-star oasis, decked in chandeliers and marble. After settling into my large suite, I jumped in a taxi to the Red Fort, an enormous ancient structure in the centre of the city. On the way back, we passed the imposing India Gate. Hundreds of people, like characters in a painting, walked in its shadow as the red, smoke-veiled sun began to set behind it.

Buddhism in India

I was there for a conclave on Buddhism, and monks and nuns from all over the world were starting to arrive. That evening, during dinner at one of the hotel’s many restaurants, a table of monks from a monastery in Thailand sat behind me.The next morning, on our tour to more of Delhi’s sights, more had arrived – monasteries from Cambodia, America, Bhutan, Australia and more were represented. I was going to walk the trail of the Buddha with them, through some of India’s most illustrious Buddhist destinations. Delhi is a wonderful place to start; there, people, structures and ancient history from almost every religion and culture exist alongside one another in harmony.

Humayuns Tomb in Delhi

We went together to Qutb Minar, a World Heritage Site that was originally commissioned in 1192AD, and the Mughal emperor Humayun’s Tomb. It was there that I met a monk from a monastery in Cambodia, who was taking pictures of the impressive building on his iPad. Later, at a grand dinner in Varanasi, I’d ask him about his use of technology – I assumed it’d be frowned upon – and he let me know, with a laugh, that there isn’t anything bad about technology or using it, because it connects us to the world. I was learning, slowly.

Nun praying at Bodhi Temple

That evening we were officially welcomed to Delhi with a short concert of traditional Buddhist chanting and talks from a number of dignitaries on the importance of Buddhism to India. The next morning, we’d travel to Varanasi to visit both the ganges and the place the Buddha held his first ceremony, Sarnath. There’s a different kind of enchantment to Varanasi – it’s busy, but not like Delhi.

On narrow dirt roads, cars and rickshaws dodge nonchalant cows who graze on rare tufts of grass and discarded scraps with an unaffected rhythm. Stalls erupting with brick-a-brack, coconuts, freshly cooked dosas, spices and textiles spill into the streets creating an almost-chaos that’s fascinating to watch. This is a place where people flock, like pilgrims. Their goal? The holy waters of The Ganges, where they bathe, pay tribute to their ancestors, say goodbye to loved ones who’ve passed away, and leave flowers and offerings. The atmosphere is electric; everything is moving with the current towards the water.

The Ganges

We were lucky enough to attend a beautiful Aarthi ceremony of the banks of the river on our first evening in Varanasi. The dusty, flame-orange sun was beginning to set and the Indian humidity was dancing with the rocking, darkening water to create a musty white mist that rose like smoke into the sky. People – everywhere – people watched from the sidelines, from the docked boats and from the buildings and shops all around as the chanting began. Soon, flames were floating through the air, gongs and shells were being sounded in harmony and petals were floating in the water. Some hours later we left, in awe, to attend a garden party with skewers of tandoori cooked chicken, lamb and fish, plus countless curries, dhals and local delicacies like jalebi.

The Mahabodhi Temple

Sarnath, which we visited the next morning, was starkly tranquil in comparison. In the quiet morning heat we walked in silence through the grounds that The Buddha walked. The monk I met a few days before was with his large monastery and, when we arrived at Dhamek Stupa, they began to chant and meditate. The monks can chant for hours – my friend told me he could continue for three hours from memory. The morning was just a pause of calm. Later, I got into a rickshaw and asked him to take me to the main shopping street in Varanasi. The precarious wheels trembled as they rocketed over stone streets and swerved past cows and motorbikes and cars, but he got me there. A place like this can be overwhelming; stalls selling everything – spices, cloth, toys, scarves, religious pictures and models – lined the road. You could explore for hours, but I was back to my hotel in a few.

The markets in Varanasi

Next stop: Bodh Gaya. This is a place that feels even more remote, even more removed from what we know. Stretches of yellow-green land are punctuated sparsely with farmers and locals, carrying jars and bundles of wood on their heads. Little road-side shacks sell everything, from dinner to open-air haircuts. My visit here was cut short – my flight back to Delhi was rescheduled for the same day I arrived.

I managed, luckily, to visit one of the most important Buddhist destinations in India: the Bodhi Tree. Here, The Buddha found enlightenment. It radiates with history, leaking its large, tangled limbs over the small fence that’s been built to protect it. Many people sat around it reading or meditating, but I didn’t have time for that. Soon I was back in a taxi to the airport, a little later flying back to Delhi and, early the next morning, packed up and bound for London, which at this point felt like a different world.

by Becky Zanker
The Ashok, New Delhi. Rooms start from £70 per night
For more information about accommodation in Varanasi please go here. And for further details about travelling in India can be found on the Ministry of Tourism/Incredible India site.

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When we arrived in Bordeaux it was early evening and we went quickly from the small airport to the centre of city. It’s hard to believe that Bordeaux is a city, really, because it has such small-town warmth. The flat-fronted buildings, all a faded sand colour, paint a pretty scene on quiet, winding streets. Just after I arrived, I walked a few of these to the nearest fromagerie where the kind proprietor offered me a generous slice of truffle-studded gouda to complement the local, fig-filled goats’ cheese I’d just bought.

Caviar Sturia’s sturgeon farm

That evening, we were to dine in the beautiful Le Grand Maison de Bernard Magrez. This opulent residence houses only six rooms atop its elegant restaurant. We passed through this to get to the pretty terrace, where we enjoyed champagne and some amuse-bouches in the evening sun. The entire meal that evening, including these, was produced by Pierre Gagnaire – the lauded chef has just taken over the kitchens at the restaurant. Every dish was to include one of Caviar Sturia’s variations, and the starting dishes were no exception with bites of perfectly crisp pork belly, daintily topped with a creamy black peak of caviar, among the selection.

Caviar brunch

The main dishes were to be enjoyed inside, in a plush private dining room. Among them, a sous vide egg that leaked its sun-bright yolk at the slightest prick of a fork atop an umami-packed sturgeon and chicken terrine; delicate slices of raw fish and artichoke given buttery undertones by Prestige caviar; and tender, apple-red slices of seared beef topped with shimmering Oscietra caviar for the most lavish of finishes. The meal was punctuated by a wine-guessing game – each bottle more rare and obscure than the next – that rendered the entire experience utterly surreal. While we quickly identified the first as a riesling, the group was left bamboozled by a sea-aged white that had legs without being syrupy and the hazy colour of an unripe orange.

Sturgeon at Caviar Sturia’s farm

After so enjoying each of Caviar Sturia’s variations in culinary context, it was only fitting that we visited their farm to see how it’s all done the following day. Sturgeons are native to the Caspian Sea and, once upon a time, fisherman would catch them wild for caviar. That’s  illegal now – due to a declining population – and caviar farmers have developed sustainable production methods. Sturia understands the importance of the sturgeon in the process, and treats each of its fish with the utmost respect. They are nurtured for up to nine years, kept in placid, man-made lakes designed for them.

When they are suitably matured, the caviar is taken and processed quickly by people who can only be described as masters of their craft. The fresh, luminous eggs are precisely weighed, measured and assessed for quality before being transferred to tins suiting their specific style and taste. It’s actually quite extraordinary to see how swift an undertaking that part of the journey is, considering the years of preparation that come before it.

Caviar Sturia’s Prestige variety of caviar

To finish our trip we toured Caviar Sturia’s beautiful headquarters and tasted once more each of the variations they offer – this time straight from the tin. Each has its own distinct flavour and feel; Origin is rich and mature, while Jasmin, for example, is delicate and buttery.

And there ended our trip. We drove quickly through a beautifully hot Bordeaux to the airport and within a matter of hours we were back in London. Our journey was short, but Caviar Sturia’s isn’t – for while it might take just moments to enjoy it, years and years of care and thought have gone into every spoonful.

by Becky Zanker

The post Glass journeys to Bordeaux to uncover the mysteries of caviar – and also enjoys a once-in-a-lifetime meal first appeared on The Glass Magazine.

Rosas Victoria

The hearty Thai calamari – delicately coated in a crisp, light batter – was a promising starting point, while the grilled, homemade sausage was brimming with the spice of Northern Thailand. We also sampled the generous chicken satay skewers – a classic, beautifully done at Rosa’s – and one of the seasonal specials: a vibrant grapefruit, tofu and seafood salad. The heat was perfectly offset by the refreshing, citrus flavour of the kaffir lime and mint cocktail we began with.

Red Thai curry at Rosa’s

As for the mains; the traditional green curry is creamy and comforting, while the rich massaman comes with tender bites of beef. Both of these are complemented well by the blackberry and tamarind rum punch, which brings a welcome zing to the buttery undertones of each. The pineapple rice is a spotlight piece; the fruit is halved, hollowed out, and overfilled with lightly spiced fried rice, plump prawns, squid and cashew nuts. Add a spicy papaya salad and you’re set.

Pineapple rice at Rosa’s

Finally. the smoky sweet old fashioned with dried banana that came with dessert was a fitting bedfellow for the scoops of ice cream – Thai ice tea, green tea and coconut – that we sampled alongside it.

Thai-style cocktail

By Becky Zanker

Rosa’s Victoria, 25 Gillingham Street, London, SW1V 1HN

The post Glass samples the vibrant Thai flavours of Rosa’s Victoria, London first appeared on The Glass Magazine.

IKOS Olivia will make an avid relaxer out of even the most stubbornly stressed. It starts at the airport, where a private shuttle picks you up and transports you through the olive groves and vast, verdant vineyards of Thessaloniki into quiet Halkidiki, the resort’s pretty, coastal home. The lobby gleams – the long bar, on one side, serves a varied list of cocktails while just around the corner, the airy French restaurant Provence proffers fresh seafood and salads to diners who look out over the azure pool.

A boat ride in Halkidiki

After we checked in, we were driven by buggy to our rooms. The resort stems from a large main building, with balcony-backed rooms, to bungalow-like branches that offer sun porches and, in some instances, inviting private pools.  My suite had a large living area, with its own dining table, and a separate bedroom where beautiful dark wood features were offset by elegant, naval blues. We toured the rest of the resort before dinner and, as the sun was setting over the large Deluxe swimming pool, a father and son still played quietly in the water – I later learned that all the pools are heated, so this sort of late-afternoon frivolity is still entirely possible through the seasons.

The beachside Italian restaurant, Fusco

Dinner, on the first night, was in the resort’s beachside Italian restaurant, Fusco. The sound of the waves skimming the sand sound-tracked a meal of delicate carpaccio, rock-salted steak and rich tiramisu. After the sun had well and truly set, we walked next door to Helios, the bar, for cocktails before bed. When I returned to my room, it had been prepared for sleep with the curtains drawn and little petit fours on the pillow. It’s this sort of attention to detail that defined Ikos Olivia for me – how could you fail to let go of real-world stress when even the tiniest thing is taken care of for you?

 A bedroom bungalow at Ikos Olivia

On the second morning, following a vibrant buffet breakfast at Provence, the resort arranged for us to take a boat ride around a pretty and virtually deserted bay close by. We sat on the top deck as the boat, Sunday, gently skimmed  the rippling, cerulean water. Despite being quite far out to sea, you needn’t have strained your eyes to see right to the bottom of the water and to the seabed, where the occasional fish and peppering of coral provided the only entertainment we needed. As we looped around the bay, our captain came up to inform us that for the last few weeks, dolphins had been swimming in the circle of sea up ahead. We waited, quietly, as the boat – engine silenced – approached the little group of dorsal fins that dipped and weaved their way through the water. As we got closer, they began to jump out of the sea – as if they knew we were watching.

The beach at Ikos Olivia

Back to the hotel and we took a late, leisurely lunch at sand-side Flavors, which serves an enormous buffet that hotel guests are free to peruse and feast from at their leisure. Here, choice abounds, and our lunch plates were quickly filled with slow-cooked lamb, octopus salad, local olives, braised aubergines, soft feta and freshly caught fish – to name but a few of the beautiful dishes that caught our eye. From there, I made my way to the resort’s main pool for an afternoon swim and quiet cocktail – served directly to the table beside my lounger. We were also treated, that afternoon, to a massage in the spa.

A couples treatment room at the Spa

Here, therapists tease the remaining tensions from bodies before they retire to the indoor pool, sauna or Hammam. That evening we dined at Ouzo, the resort’s elegant Greek restaurant, where champagne flowed and traditional dishes were served in refined portions. I started with fried anchovies and continued with fall-off-the-bone lamb with potato puree. Another day slowly sinking away, and another pair of petit fours on my newly plumped pillows when I returned to my room.

The beach at Ikos Olivia

The next morning – and by now I had truly embraced the spirit of the resort – I woke up to enjoy a long, lingering breakfast at Flavors, overlooking the ocean. From here, we were driven to a local winery for a tour of the owner’s eclectic corkscrew collection and the little museum that accompanied it. It was all light and easy and, of course, ended with a tasting of the vineyard’s extraordinary wines which ranged from fruity white to tannin-rich red. Again, and wholly without complaint, the afternoon was whiled away in the water. This time in the sea, with a pina colada waiting by my lounger.

Ikos Olivia Deluxe Collection

That evening, the resort had arranged for us to dine at a local taverna. The restaurant, with its pretty, vine-covered patio, radiated the kind of rustic magic that lends itself effortlessly to long evenings of jovial, wine-fuelled conversation. To eat, we shared an assortment of traditional Greek starters – grilled halloumi, rice-filled vine leaves, fried courgette and Greek salad. For the main course I had a kebab fresh from the grill – a perfect representation of what Greece does so well: simple, fresh food that’s perfect without embellishment.

And thus ended the dream – one I was very reluctant to wake up from. Our private shuttle took us to the airport the following morning. Despite having left, however, I took a little bit of the resort with me and, for a few days at least, I felt completely serene.

by Becky Zanker

The post Glass enjoys three blissful nights at Halkidiki’s elegant all-inclusive resort, Ikos Olivia first appeared on The Glass Magazine.

WALK into Tokimeite and you’d be forgiven for believing you’d somehow, magically, been transported directly to Japan. “Irasshaimase” the maitre d’ says politely while your eyes adjust to the light of the pretty, chandelier-decked bar. And sitting at it? Groups of well-dressed Japanese people of course – certainly a good omen.

Our coats and bags quickly stowed away, we were ushered upstairs to a quiet corner table. Cocktails first; the Okinawa Old Fashioned sung with the sweetness of freshly scraped vanilla while the Yellow Bloody Mary incorporated the careful simplicity that Japanese cuisine is so renowned for.

Now to the food, and this was a difficult choice because surely everything that multiple-Michelin-star-awarded Yoshihiro Murata puts on his menu is going to be outstanding. So, to start, we opted for the classic chicken karaage, which was easily the best we’d ever tasted, and the picturesque marinated mackerel layered with ribbons of pale-green fennel.

Delicate tempura at Tokimeite

We didn’t want to miss the tempura – it being such a favourite of ours when in Japan – and the tempura selection with prawns, mushrooms, potato and plenty more didn’t disappoint. It was light and crisp, just as it should be, without any of the weight or oiliness that so often comes with deep frying.

Sashimi at Tokimeite

To follow this, we chose the seven-piece sashimi set. The ornate treasure box it arrived in was opened at our table to reveal a magical plume of smoke and, as it rose and dissipated, a collection of colourful sashimi as vibrant and beguiling as jewels. The toro – fatty tuna – was like butter, while the silver-pink prawns and creamy scallops were impossibly sweet.

The marinated mackerel at Tokimeite

One of the restaurant’s starring dishes completed our meal – the wagyu sukiyaki – a dish of soft, pink beef and generous coins of black truffle that comes to a boil at your table. A number of the diners around us had also opted to enjoy this dish, and it’s easy to understand why: the ingredients are the epitome of luxury, and they come together so beautifully in front of your eyes.

After such a spectacle, dessert may easily have gone unobserved. The matcha panna cotta, however, was so prettily presented and uniquely delicious that we couldn’t help but remember it just as fondly as we had the glimmering, treasure-like sashimi and the comforting, salubrious sukiyaki. So, I suppose, my suspicion was correct – not one thing on Murata’s menu could disappoint.

by Becky Zanker

The post Japanese fine dining in London – Glass visits Tokimeite first appeared on The Glass Magazine.