Last year Bense launched grooming line, To My Ships – the title inspired by an extract from Homer’s epic poem The Iliad – which has sustainability at its core. The elegantly minimal To My Ships has the ambition to prioritise “quality and responsibility, we aim to minimise waste and environmental impacts through responsible design and use of resources, the application of a subtractive aesthetic, and an encouragement to reuse, refill and recycle containers.”

_{Daniel Bense – founder of To My Ships}

To make the brand’s chic post-consumer recycled and recyclable aluminium containers, To My Ships worked with a packaging manufacturer based outside Bilbao, Spain, where the team ingeniously discovered that by reducing the diameter of the aluminium containers to make a slimmer and taller bottle, this would save 10 per cent of the material used.

The pared down, thoughtfully curated debut range, entitled Of The Gods Polygonum, comprises a roll-on and spray-on deodorant; a hand and body wash; as well as an eau de parfum. They are all scented with a 99.97 per cent naturally derived fine fragrance, formulated in the “tradition of haute parfumerie”. Created by leading perfumer Céline Barel, they are verdant, fresh, citrusy-infused with hints of polygonum (derived from lily of the valley), petitgrain and patchouli.

The products are all made from the highest quality ingredients. For instance, the Of The Gods Polygonum hand and body wash is sulphate-free, vegan, while the roll-on deodorant is dermatologically tested and free from aluminium salts.

_{To My Ships Polygonum Hand and Body Wash refill (750ml) £65 | Buy here}

What challenges do you encounter in producing reasonably priced, high quality innovative products while maintaining the brand’s commitment to sustainability?

We set out to create a deodorant for those who seek responsibly made, intelligently designed products – exceptional in quality, reliably effective and intensely pleasurable to use. We should all care more about what we put on and in our bodies; for too long, we’ve overlooked this. Your underarms are incredibly sensitive and deserve to be treated with respect, which is why we pared-back the formula to its essential elements – a challenge for our lab and perfumers alike, from a toxicological, price and efficacy perspective.

Building a fully European supply chain added another layer, but real business happens in person, forged through genuine relationships. A good block of Pitchfork cheddar goes a long way with a Bavarian glassmaker or a Basque aluminium supplier. We knew we wouldn’t be the largest customer, but we’d certainly be the one of the more interesting.

_{Of The Gods – Polygonum, Eau de Parfum 100ml £175 | Buy here}

Why is the classical world so important to you?
The title To My Ships is an excerpt from The Iliad, as are the names of each of the company’s products. Amid the chaos, there is so much beauty in a piece of text that has been passed down by orators over the ages. Drawing on this ever-resonant advocacy for calm and civilised living is inspiring. We have much to learn from the classics; they are full of beauty, tragedy and life.

What are your future plans for the brand?
We are ambitious and focused on continuing to create more with less – and better. In the coming months, we will launch with key partners in the UK, Australia, Benelux and the US, alongside three new product lines throughout the year. It won’t be long before we enter the world of retail; we know that this will be the truest expression for our customers. At the same time, we’re continuing to push ourselves to work with our lab to develop products that are simple, responsible and that redefine the status quo.

What is your hero product from the range?
The Of The Gods Polygonum Roll-on Deodorant is the true hero of the range. To My Ships began as a contrast to the too-loud, too-overbearing, too-artificial, too-duty-free fragrances of today. We set out and created a deodorant from the world of fine fragrance – elevating a dark, functional product with the care applied to skincare formulation and a unique, seductive green citrus scent. And it works.

Where and how do you see grooming evolving?
Now feels like the moment to connect with those who are discerning in their purchases – who refuse platitudes, fads, superficiality and greenwashing, and who take time to research and source products of value. I hope we will move away from jargon and more towards reality, and this means simple, effective products that are priced for their quality. And refills – I hope that they provide significant value while considering the full system of customer use, reuse, refill and household recycling.

_{Of The Gods Polygonum Spray-On Deodorant 75ML £35 | Buy here}

What defines your style?
Simple, understated, mostly navy and of good quality – a Harley lambswool jumper, a Barena shirt and pretty much anything from Dick’s in Edinburgh.

What is your signature scent?
Nothing too smelly. I’m drawn to fresh, green notes with bitter citruses and light woods – crisp, sophisticated and quietly confident. Right now, I’m wearing Stand Up Bravely, which launches in April. It’s centred around marjoram heart, giving it an earthy, natural simplicity that stays with you in the most effortless, understated way. Honestly, the deodorant version might be the best product I’ve ever worked on.

by Caroline Simpson

tomyships.com

The post Daniel Bense On His Innovative Body Care and Fragrance Company, To My Ships first appeared on The Glass Magazine.

Maison Crivelli – Safran Secret

£220 for 50 ml EDP – Buy here

A visit to a saffron field enveloped in fog was the starting point for Safran Secret, the latest fragrance from the very popular French niche house, Maison Crivelli, and infused with more than its usual air of mystery.

Composed by up-and-coming French-Spanish perfumer Gaël Montero, now based in Dubai, the Maison has kept the ingredients under wraps as they would rather you experience the scent with no preconceptions. However, mysterious spicy accents of rich woods and saffron pervade. Safran Secret is potent – at a 30 per cent concentration.

Akro – Breathe

£160 for 100ml – Buy here

In 2022, master perfumer and the nose behind Mugler’s Angel, Olivier Cresp teamed up with  his daughter Anaïs to found Akro, informed by Anaïs’ time living in Ladbroke Grove, west London. Since its inception, Akro has created some brilliant fragrances – always monosyllabically titled – that have become instant hits.

Akro began by celebrating “irresistible addictions” and Breathe is an “addiction to nature”, taking its lead from the tranquillity of outdoors and “capturing the essence of calmness and offering a peaceful escape”. In Breathe, Akro has created a distinctive and compelling aromatic scent with elegant hints of bergamot, lavender, water and musk.

Hermès – Terre d’Hermès Intense

£120 for 100ml – Buy here

The latest flanker from Hermès’ classic line, Terre d’Hermès Intense adds hypnotic facets of smoke, coffee beans and liquorice to its original wood-infused profile. Christine Nagel, Creative Director of Hermès Perfumes, says, “For this new chapter of Terre d’Hermès, I wanted to express a different facet of the earth: the raging heat of an underground fire rising forcefully to the surface.” 

Terre d’Hermès Intense opens with fresh bergamot and black pepper; deep liquorice and rich coffee are at its heart, moored by the intoxicating aroma of burning wood and intense lava stone. This is an intriguing long-lasting fragrance, which hadn’t faded after a day on my test blotter.

The refillable glass and aluminium bottle is designed by Philippe Mouquet and evokes “the concentrated expression the power of inner fire” with its red-brownish lacquer.

La Collection Privée Christian Dior – Bois Talisman

£168 for 50ml EDP – Buy here

The latest for La Collection Privée Christian Dior, Bois Talisman arose from Dior’s Perfume Creation Director Francis Kurkdjian’s research into Christian Dior’s penchant for talismans. “I have always found Christian Dior’s superstitious nature deeply touching,” says Kurkdjian. “It speaks to me, as I share it in an atavistic way, but also because I have a ‘taste’ for it – rather like the harmless fun rituals I invent for myself to ward off bad luck.”

Bois Talisman explores both Dior’s and Kurkdjian’s superstitions: “The sugar cube tucked away in my pocket blended with the pieces of wood that Christian Dior continually touched in his. Sugar flowed towards an intense vanilla that reveals every one of its facets.”

Smooth and warming, Bois Talisman intertwines a sophisticated vanilla with cedarwood to create an assertive, and opulent, fragrance.

Givenchy La Collection Particulière Les Jardins – Désobéissant 

£285 for 100ml EDP – Buy here

Givenchy’s exclusive La Collection Particulière line takes as its starting point the people founder Hubert de Givenchy encountered. He said to them, “You have your own style, personality. Accentuate them. And if you have a favourite perfume, cherish it. Because it’s a part of you.” This year, the house has introduced L’Enfant Terrible, Tapageur and Désobéissant.

These are spirited and energetic scents, combining and contrasting sharp citruses and spiritual woods, underpinned with a smoky black tea facet. My favourite, Désobéissant, fizzes with an outstandingly fresh citron vibe, enhanced by spicy cardamon essence that is juxtaposed by aromatic Scots pine and cedarwood as the base.

Amouage – Outlands

£355 for 100ml – Buy here

The celebrated Omani house, Amouage, has launched The Essences, a trio of highly concentrated –  30 per cent perfume oil – exquisitely crafted scents, a reverie on time that takes the art of perfumery to the next level. Each one has been aged for six months (macerated in oakwood barrels) to create a superb texture and contrast, adding to the richness of the composition.

Outlands is composed by leading nose Cécile Zarokian and explores the future, risk-taking and adventure. It opens with a burst of citrusy spice (sichuan pepper, lemon, cardamom, frankincense), followed by comforting rich and soft notes of patchouli, saffron, anise, geranium, coriander and wormwood, which are blended with addictive spice and amber accords.
This is a beautiful big fragrance.

Brunello Cucinelli – Ombra Lirica

£255 for 100ml EDP – Buy here

Super-luxe Italian fashion house Brunello Cucinelli entered the fine fragrance market last year with two perfectly considered lines. This year it has dropped the Incanti Poetici collection, six highly concentrated juices, each one interpreting poems to create an all-encompassing olfactory world. It is a good idea. A perfume is like a poem. 

For the collection, master perfumer Alberto Morillas created Ombra Lirica (meaning, “lyrical shadow”), inspired by the 19^th century sonnet A Zacinto by Ugo Foscolo, where he writes about his deep love of his home Zakynthos, now part of Greece. So far, so much literary history. What about what is in the bottle? Well, it blends earthy cedar and guaiac wood with spicy hints of nutmeg and cedarwood, with warm oud and a smoky incense smouldering in the background to create a very wearable scent.

Memo Paris – Portobello Road 

£235 for 70ml EDP – Buy here

Founded in 2007 and taking its lead from “the art of travel”, each Memo Paris scent transports you to a new destination, and this year, it takes you for an olfactive wander down Portobello Road, the storied west London street. Sweet, airy and balmy, Portobello Road blends myrtle oil with a charming rose and a unique rain accord – you will want to smell it again and again – it’s ideal for the season.

Ormonde Jayne – Montabaco Aruba

£220 for 88ml EDP – Buy here

Part of beloved British fragrance house Ormonde Jayne’s Four Corners of the Earth range, Montabaco, launched in 2012, explored Latin America with soulful, seductive and dynamic leather, suede, wood and tobacco accents. This year, the house has added three limited edition flankers to the line.

My favourite is the radiant Aruba. Beginning with luscious tropical flowers – magnolia, jasmine, rose and violet – followed by a comforting centre of invigorating and sunny bergamot, orange absolute and grapefruit. This is underscored by intriguingly potent tobacco and leather, spiced by cardamom. Aruba is completed by the signature ingredient of sandalore.

Electimuss London – Moroccan Medjool

£200 for 100ml EDP – Buy here

Recently launched, the final chapter in decadent and daring niche fragrance house Electimuss London’s Explorer Collection is Moroccan Medjool, created by perfumer Marco Genovese. This luxuriant perfume is a golden, ambery confection inspired by soft and deeply sweet dates.

Citrus and floral, Moroccan Medjool has hints of citrus date, grapefruit, lemon and cardamom; a heart of ylang ylang, jasmine and date, and is rounded off with an amber-filled base of musky cashmere wood, ambergris, oak moss, vanilla and caramel.

A Moroccan delight.

by Caroline Simpson

The post Scents To Transport You To All Corners Of The Globe first appeared on The Glass Magazine.

 “A ride in the forest, the unsettling scents of damp undergrowth. The leather and tobacco trail of a horse rider in a red suit, the elegant, sensual tone of bold vanilla. From that moment on, I created something off the beaten track, Habit Rouge,” he said of his inspiration for Habit Rouge.

_{Habit Rouge Spirit Parfum, 100ml, £150}

Regarded as one of the first amberesque wood fragrances for men (although it is great for everyone to wear), Habit Rouge embodies French style and elegance. Groundbreaking at its time, it’s still a much-worn fragrance.

Its original scent profile had aromatic and citric opening notes of lemon, orange, bergamot, tangerine, Palisander rosewood, basil and lime; with a heart of carnation, rose, jasmine, sandalwood, patchouli, cinnamon and white cedar extract; supported by a base of benzoin, vanilla, amber, oakmoss, labdanum and leather.

Launched to mark its 60th anniversary, the limited-edition Habit Rouge Spirit, is an opportunity to revisit and also celebrate the original with a modern take on this masterwork, which has been achieved by making it with an oak-barrel-ageing technique – which is usually used in whiskey and winemaking.

According to Guerlain, the oak-barrel ageing process allows the scent’s ingredients to evolve slowly, adding depth, complexity and woodier notes.

As Delphine Jelk, Guerlain Director of Perfume, explains, it is “An unexpected encounter between Habit Rouge Parfum and two oak barrels, each boasting different olfactory properties, linked to the age of their respective woods. Over time, the synergy of the wood and the formula’s ingredients gives rise to new fragrance facets. Painstaking work then follows to find the ideal balance: an exceptional fragrance blend that offers the iconic Habit Rouge a new signature.”

Habit Rouge Spirit is an impressive tribute to the original.

by Caroline Simpson

_{Habit Rouge Spirit Parfum, 100ml £150}

The post Guerlain celebrates 60 years of Habit Rouge with new oak-barrel aged Habit Rouge Spirit first appeared on The Glass Magazine.

Kublin was born in 1924 in Zalaszentgrót, a small town in Hungary. He was obsessed with photography from a young age – setting up a dark room in his parents’ bathroom. When he was 15, he studied photography at the Budapest School of Photography and during the Second World War he took photos of the bomb-devastated city for the Hungarian army.

_{Tom Kublin behind the Camera, 1965. Courtesy Maria Kublin}

With Hungary still reeling from the fall out of war, he moved to Zurich in 1951 and set up a photographic studio. At the time, the Swiss city was famous for its textile industry and Kublin worked for the Abraham silk company, which supplied Parisian Haute Couture houses, photographing fabric.

It was through this that Kublin began working with Cristóbal Balenciaga photographing the designs of each of his collections for copyright purposes, as was commonplace in Haute Couture. This began their mutually creative relationship.

Kublin went on to shoot many Balenciaga looks for magazines such as Harper’s Bazaar where he was a favourite photographer of its fashion editor, Diana Vreeland, developing an elegant style that focussed on the garment rather than the model and mise en scène. Working in moving images, he also filmed Balenciaga’s fashion shows and a commercial for Balenciaga’s Le Dix perfume, which was restored for the exhibition Tom Kublin for Balenciaga: An Unusual Collaboration at the Cristóbal Balenciaga Museum.

_{Maria Kublin. Courtesy Maria Kublin}

Tragically Kublin died at the age of 42, too early for his significance in photography to be fully recognised.

His posthumous – and only child – Maria Kublin (her mother, Kublin’s muse, the Dutch model Katinka Bleeker, was six months’ pregnant with her when Kublin suddenly died in 1966 in Locarno, Switzerland) has collaborated with Ana Balda on a book focussing on his work with Balenciaga, Balenciaga – Kublin: A Fashion Record, published by Thames&Hudson.

How did the idea for a book about your father’s collaboration with Cristóbal Balenciaga originate?

In 2022, my co-author, Dr Ana Balda, and I curated an exhibition for the Cristóbal Balenciaga Museum, Tom Kublin for Balenciaga: An Unusual Collaboration. From the outset, it was the intention to emphasise the extraordinary collaboration between my father, Tom Kublin, and renowned Haute Couture designer Cristóbal Balenciaga. To do so, the exhibition showed more than 100 photographs and five short films, all shot by Kublin for Balenciaga.

Our initial idea was to have a catalogue coinciding with the exhibition, but as we were living in uncertain times – due to the pandemic – it just didn’t happen. The fact that the exhibition was extended because it was such a success gave us the confidence that people were interested in the creative relationship between my father and Balenciaga. And so, the idea of a making a book came into existence.

_{June 1965, Harper’s Bazaar US. Courtesy Hearst Magazine Media Inc}

The book also contains an interview with your mother, Katinka. Can you explain how this idea evolved and how you felt interviewing your mother?

As previously mentioned, Balenciaga-Kublin: A Fashion Record was written by two authors each with a distinctive approach: Ana Balda was responsible for writing the biography of my father.  Being the posthumous daughter of Kublin, I was eager to give a more personal perspective and interviewing my mother Katinka Bleeker, model and muse, seemed a logical thing to do. Being able to interview my mother was an enriching experience as it gave me an insight into her life as a young girl from Amsterdam who moved to New York City in the 1950s with a dream of becoming a model and where she met my father.

_{1955, Abraham Textile Archive. Courtesy Abraham Textile Archive, Swiss National Museum, Zurich}

Did you and your mother have all his archive when he died or did you have to seek it out?  

After my father passed away, my mother was left with the archive. For many years it was just there. My mother was so overcome with grief that looking at the photographs was too painful for her.  It took a few years before she was able to look at my father’s body of work and, of course, also look at herself as a model. For me, the archive became a very important source once I dived into the legacy of my father. Discovering a filmed commercial for Balenciaga’s Le Dix perfume, starring my mother, was an absolute highlight. This film had never been seen by the public before and was shown for the first time in the exhibition.

While doing your research, did you find new information about your father?  

 In 1971, the BelleriveMuseum in Zurich dedicated a first retrospective exhibition to Balenciaga. During my research, I came across a letter written by Diana Vreeland in which she writes to the curator of this exhibition, asking politely but determinedly, if she could include the photographs and films of her dear friend Tom Kublin in her 1973 exhibition The World of Balenciaga at the Metropolitan Museum of Art. Of course, she was permitted to do so.

Besides working with Balenciaga, my father worked for Dior, Chanel, Givenchy and Yves Saint Laurent, among many others. The Musée Yves Saint Laurent in Paris has a letter from Yves Saint Laurent to my father saying how he values their friendship and collaboration. Knowing that the work of my father was appreciated by important figures in fashion has filled me with joy and pride.

_{September 1965, The Weekend Telegraph. Private Collection}

Could you describe the essence of your father’s collaboration with Cristóbal Balenciaga and why it was so fruitful?

It is not easy to explain how two creative people understand each other so well. It is interesting that they had a similar upbringing: both knew from a young age what they wanted to become later in life; were exposed to grandeur; lost their father [early in life] and had to flee their country because of political turmoil.

Perhaps this almost identical background was at the basis of it all. When my father met Balenciaga, he was still in his 20s and Balenciaga, being older, might have mentored the young Kublin by taking him, for example, to art galleries and museums where he introduced Kublin to Spanish artists like Goya and Zubarán.

I can imagine that through these museum visits and conversations, my father developed a certain taste, which eventually developed into a shared vision and visual dialogue that enabled both to learn from each other and for Balenciaga to see his designs in a fresh and different way. The collaboration between Tom Kublin and Cristóbal Balenciaga is significant both in documentary and artistic purposes with the importance of the photographic and filmic work in shaping the image of the Balenciaga brand.

_{July 1964, Harper’s Bazaar US. Courtesy Hearst Magazine Media Inc}

Balenciaga was heavily influenced by art. After seeing his oeuvre, would you say this also applies to the work of your father?

My father had his first studio in Zurich, Switzerland, at the time the world capital for silk companies. At its highpoint, the city had more than 90 silk businesses and one of these companies was Abraham, whom my father worked for, photographing their fabrics. The director, Gustav Zumsteg, was a visionary and his best clients were Balenciaga, Givenchy and Yves Saint Laurent.

Zumsteg’s mother was the propriétaire of Kronenhalle, a restaurant where avant-garde artists, Haute Couture designers and my father mingled. Being an art historian, I can definitely see that he was influenced by art. A great example is a photograph he took for Harper’s Bazaar [1959] of the ballerina Antoinette Sibley and a sketch from an Edward Degas portfolio which was in my father’s art collection. The composition, the pose of the ballerina and the atmosphere of the image are strikingly similar. We also discovered that the dramatic draped fabrics he used as a background for many editorials was inspired by Da Vinci’s Drapery for a Seated Figure.

What can you tell us about your father’s development as a photographer?

Of course, I know my father’s body of work very well but sometimes I am surprised by discovering a photograph that was previously unknown to me.  His development as a fashion photographer and filmmaker became evident at the show at the Cristóbal Balenciaga Museum. Being able to see his career showcased in chronological order gave such a great overview, showing how he evolved and developed his signature style. This was also the case with his fashion films. His first films are a bit stiff in comparison to his later ones, which show off his confidence and artistic skills.

_{November 1963, Harper’s Bazaar US. Courtesy Hearst Magazine Media Inc}

How do you think Tom Kublin influenced fashion photography?

Simplicity is the ultimate sophistication and Kublin understood that. In the isolation of his studio, Tom Kublin created his own world with his own aesthetic, which happened to be in harmony with the Balenciaga aesthetic. 

He was a master at capturing timeless beauty resulting in images of classical simplicity. Kublin’s breathtaking portrait of my mother and muse, Katinka [for Harper’s Bazaar, 1965] marks a legacy of timeless photographs that captured an unexpected beauty and the essence of the golden age of couture.

Fashion photography before my father’s time depended on lavish decoration and extravagant poses. In Kublin’s work, there are, for example, no settings, only the model and the dress. By emphasising style over context, he revolutionised the genre.

Do you have any future plans for keeping your father’s legacy alive?  

I would love to introduce my father’s work to the greater public and I think that creating this book definitely helps. In collaboration with my publisher, Thames&Hudson, I have been extremely lucky to be able to do book-related events – for example a talk at the V&A in London in October.  I can hardly describe how good it feels to talk about my father’s legacy and receive such positive reactions.  Of course, I would like another exhibition and am currently in conversation with several important  art institutions. So let’s see what the future has in store.

by Caroline Simpson

_{Balenciaga – Kublin: A Fashion Record by Ana Balda and Maria Kublin is published by Thames&Hudson}

The post Glass speaks to Maria Kublin, daughter of the influential fashion photographer Tom Kublin first appeared on The Glass Magazine.

_{Chanel Les Beiges Bronzing Cream in Soleil Tan Light Bronze RRP £50}

The two new creams are in Soleil Tan Light Bronze, a deep beige, and a rich dark brown Soleil Tan Intense Deep Brown both of which complement the other three Les Beiges Bronzing shades of Soleil Tan Bronze, Soleil Tan Medium Bronze and Soleil Tan Deep Bronze.

_{Chanel Les Beiges Bronzing Cream in Soleil Tan Intense Deep Brown RRP £50}

Some people are a bit shy about using bronzers however don’t be, as the Chanel Les Beiges are very easy to use. With their beautiful sublime velvet-y gel-cream formulation, they are very buildable and so ideal if you want a gentle glow or if you prefer a deeper bronze.

The range are the ideal starter bronzers as they are so simple to use with beautiful results.

To use, start with a just tiny bit of product on your bronzing brush, a large Kabuki-style one is great for this.

_{Chanel Les Beiges Bronzing Cream}

Remember, when using a bronzer, blending is key and also don’t forget to take the bronzer down to cover your neck and even chest if your decolletage is exposed.

Les Beiges Bronzing Cream are also now embossed with the iconic Chanel logo pressed into the cream – which is a lovely added touch.

Chanel Make-up Artist Marco Antonio has these tips for the best way to use Les Beiges Bronzing Cream bronzers for the bronzer curious and confident among you.

To apply, he suggests: “For me the best way to apply bronzer would be with a large, fluffy brush. This will help me apply the product evenly and prevent streaks or harsh lines. Start by applying the bronzer to the areas of your face that the sun would naturally hit, such as your forehead, temples, cheekbones. Remember, less is often more when it comes to bronzer.”

_{Less is more when applying bronzer}

Don’t be shy, embrace the sunny side. The Chanel bronzing creams sell out very fast, so consider this yourself warn, get to the Chanel beauty counter – or website ­­– now.

by Caroline Simpson

The post Chanel Beauty adds two new shades to Les Beiges Bronzing Creams range first appeared on The Glass Magazine.

_{Geranium Candle from Bamford £200}

Founded in 2004, by entrepreneur and sustainability advocate Carole Bamford who was inspired to make her geranium-fragranced candles by her love of the scent of scented leafed pelargoniums as well as the varieties she grows at her home.

_{The new Bamford Candle Range – 300g Candle £70, 2kg Candle £200, 5kg Candle £400}

Her four new candles in the Glasshouse collection are inspired by some particular geranium varieties she grows herself. Leading perfumers Lyn Harris, Sofia Koronaiou and Elizabeth Dowden are the noses behind scents for the new anniversary candles.

_{Bamford Small Candle}

Bamford is also launching two new products for the anniversary – firstly a luxurious Geranium Sugar Polish made with luxurious shea butter balm, Vitamin E and apricot oil, this rich polish smoothes and revitalises the skin, leaving it soft and nourished.

Infused with their signature Geranium scent, this Polish also has added a glorious blend of peppermint and eucalyptus essential oils.

_{Geranium Sugar Polish 200g for £43} 

And as a sustainable refill option for their 250ml and 500ml wash bottles, Bamford’s other newness is a Geranium Hand and Body Wash Refill Pouch filled with the brand’s hero-product of Geranium Hand and Body Wash.

As you would expect from Bamford, the refill pouch is fully recyclable and intended to reduce waste while maintaining product quality. This is all part of Bamford’s commitment to minimising single-use plastics – as well as promoting a circular economy.

Here’s to the next 20 years of Bamford.

by Caroline Simpson

The post Bamford celebrates 20 years with some special launches first appeared on The Glass Magazine.

An opportunity to meet perfume makers, experts and enthusiasts, this year’s Fair features more than 25 British and European brands. They include some of Glass’s favourite houses like Roja Dove, Angela Flanders, Eau de Boujee, Fiole, 4160 Tuesdays, Ånd Fragrances, Olfactive O and Kingdom Scotland.

As well as this, at the Fair, there will be a guided walk experiencing the outdoors scents of the area, a perfume-making workshop with leading British perfumer Sarah McCartney and an immersive ingredients workshop with Roja Dove, founder of niche British perfume house Roja Parfums.

Also taking place will what promises to be some fascinating fragrance-focussed discussions led by some of the UK leading fragrance writers and influencers such as Josephine Fairley, Alice du Parcq and Haydn Williams.

The On the Scent podcast, hosted by perfume experts Suzy Nightingale and Nicola Bonn, will be broadcasting live throughout during the day. 

All guests attending the talks will receive a goody bag. See you there!

by Caroline Simpson

Entry to the Fair is free. Tickets to the talks and events cost £15 each.
Tickets for these can be booked via Eventbrite 

_{Barnes Fragrance Fair takes place on Saturday 17 May 2025 from 10am – 5pm.
The main Fair location is Barnes Green Social Centre, Church Rd, London SW13 9HEThe talks and workshops will be held at: Methodist Church, Station Road SW13, 0NH and Olympic Studio Cinema, 117-123 Church Road, SW13 9HL}

The post The third Barnes Fragrance Fair will take place on 17 May 2025 first appeared on The Glass Magazine.

Described as “magic in a bottle”, it is based on the patented biotechnology of the brand’s Healing Concentrate which is derived from Budapest’s mineral-rich thermal waters which transforms it into a bioavailable form for the skin.

Other ingredients of Elixir include sage extract (for cell renewal and production), pumpkin seed extract (clinically proven to outperform marine collagen), sunflower sprout extract (shown to improve visible signs of ageing and boost skin longevity).

_{Omorovicza, Elixir £175, 30ml}

The Elixir can be used as a serum and a topical supplement (this means you can add it to any other serum you use as part of your skincare routine).

Omorovicza have done their due diligence and has conducted a range of clinical tests on Elixir. These *tests have shown that Elixir has an impressive 10 proven benefits – such as reducing fine lines and wrinkles; calming and balancing the skin while firming the skin. It also strengthens the skin barrier; provides deep hydration; reduces redness and minimises blemishes and imperfections. As well as all this it also corrects hyperpigmentation and boosts radiance.

_{Clinical test results. Before and after – after 28 days of use}

The tests found using Elixir increased collagen production by 26% in 24 hours in test subjects. A total of 97% people in the test group also said it had transformed their skin. Which is a pretty impressive result.

The Elixir Serum delivers deep, long-lasting hydration, elasticity and firmness are boosted, fine lines and wrinkles are reduced, skin is stronger and more resilient.

I found it very pleasant to use and have seen some good results in the brightness, improved texture and relieving the slight – and annoying – rosacea which I am prone to.

To use, apply a few drops to cleansed skin or you can add Elixir to a serum which is already part of your skincare routine to boost it.

This will deliver a (in my case) much needed boost of Healing Concentrate to your existing regime.

by Caroline Simpson

_{Omorovicza, Elixir £175, 30ml}
 

_{*Clinical information}

_{Clinical tests took place on 20 females and males aged between 37 – 65 over 4 weeks.}

_{In vitro test of the stimulating effects of Elixir on Collagen type I biosynthesis in human fibroblasts by confocal microscopy. Independent self-assessment trial completed over 30 volunteers aged between 37-65 over 4 weeks.}

The post Hungarian luxury skincare brand Omorovicza launches Elixir first appeared on The Glass Magazine.

Christopher Chong’s journey into transforming perfume brands into global names has taken a very unconventional route. Hong Kong-born and raised in New York, the London-based Chong hasn’t studied chemistry or branding and did not train at a fragrance company. Instead, he has a background in the arts and academia, studying at London University and the London College of Fashion and is also passionate about music, especially opera.

This makes him something of an enigma in the fragrance world. But what an enigma he is. He may not have a traditional background in perfumery, but he certainly has a brilliant instinct to what makes a great fragrance.

_{Christopher Chong Brand and Artistic Director at Thameen London}

He began his entry into perfumery in 2004, when he was hired by the Omani perfume house Amouage as creative director, where he transformed it into a global name with his bold and unexpected choices.  After 15 years there, where he made almost 50 perfumes, some of which are regarded as classics, he resigned in 2019. 

Three years later, he was appointed Brand and Artistic Director at Thameen London – a fragrance brand founded in London in 2013 know for perfumes, inspired by precious jewels, that were opulent and complex – and best-selling.

Since then, Chong has invigorated the house – drawing on its London influences and music of all kinds, from opera to Hendrix – inventing a new perfume category, Britlogne and creating some of the most beautifully composed perfumes of the last few years.

What is the first perfume that was important to you?

I’ve said in the past Chanel No 5 was the scent I smelled as a child and it left a memorable impression. A lot has changed since then. It was memorable at a time when I didn’t know there were jobs in creating perfumes. I thought they happened to appear on counters placed there by perfume fairies.

Both Jubilation 25 and XXV, which I created for Amouage, mean a lot to me. They were my first fragrances and entry into the perfume industry, which started an exciting and enjoyable rollercoaster ride for the past 18 years. There was no looking back once I went down into the olfactory rabbit hole.

With a background in academia and the arts, you had an atypical route into perfumery – what advantages do you consider this has this given you?

The major advantage I have is that I’m not restricted or controlled by any methodology – both technical and corporate. I’m very fortunate that I’ve always been able to be my own person without having to compromise.  For me, when one has to compromise one’s artistic integrity, then it’s the end of a love affair and it’s time to move on.

There should never be any regret when the affair ends because one takes valuable memories to the next relationship. My route and directions depend on trusting myself. I feel that’s most important because perfumery is subjective. Like conceptual art, one must be able to have that self-belief to convey the message or scent to the world. It’s never easy to articulate and explain one’s story to everyone.

Some will understand immediately and some will think I’m arrogant or a hoaxer. Whatever it may be, trusting my feelings and emotions, plus listening to that little voice inside me give me the edge. I know this sounds surreal.  Maybe I have been too conditioned and brainwashed by the arts and academia since I spent so many years studying all those cultural -isms and -ologies.

When I was at Amouage, it was an exciting time since it was the beginning of the rise of real niche perfumery in the very true sense of the word – artistry and creativity come before superficial marketing. I was also very fortunate that I didn’t have any history in perfumery.  I had this insane burst of creative energy. Plus, I was very lucky to have so many people in the industry who supported that new direction.

I had so much fun that I worked non-stop. I never took a day off or went on vacation. How fortunate I was that I only had to be deep in thoughts with my crazy and convoluted mind. Having a blank page without any precedence is an amazing feeling. The biggest drawback was that my life moved at such an insane pace that I didn’t have the time to enjoy the moment and to appreciate what I had done.

At Thameen, it’s a completely different experience. I am no longer the rookie without any history. Like walking into a new relationship, I come with perfumery baggage and a reputation – some may be good and some not. I’m thankful to Thameen for this residency that’s given me the opportunity to work in the current niche perfumery since styles and methodologies have progressed with the digital media world. I’m fortunate to be able to embrace niche perfumery from the “old school” practices to the current state.

_{Bold as Love, Thameen London}

Music, art and London seem to be important for your vision of Thameen. Where else do you find inspiration for your work?
I find inspirations in myself. Things I have experienced personally, like books I have read, performances I’ve attended and music I’ve listened. I piece these fragments together to weave my own perspective. My process has evolved in which I share my stories and experiences with the perfumer I feel best matches the intentions and directions of the scent at its early embryonic stage. Sometimes, the concepts and inspirations come from a casual chat with a perfumer about something irrelevant to perfume. I don’t restrict where the references come from. For me, it’s best to keep an open mind and look at everything around me. Originality comes from one’s own personal point of view and understanding.

Can you share some of that creative process with us?

My process is quite unconventional. I don’t do mood boards or concentrate on the technicals of perfume creation as marketing selling points. Sometimes it’s quite erratic – depending on my moods and emotions. I don’t smell other brands’ creations because I don’t want to be influenced. I need to stay focused in my own space. What’s important is to stay free and innocent with the mind and spirit of an uncontaminated child and look at the world with a fresh and excited eye.

What is the idea behind the Britologne – where did it come from and are you pleased with the results?

The concept of the Britologne is to visit the heritage of British perfumery with current tastes and technology. Cologne has been the heritage of Western and British perfumery.  What I wanted to do is to pay tribute to this perfume heritage and reimagine it for current use and enjoyment.

We altered the classic structure of citrus and herbs with other molecular accords focusing on explosive projection and longevity, which happened to be my creative DNA since I joined the industry. My approach is inspired by inclusivity in the sense that I turned the classic cologne into an explorative hybrid with other olfactory styles.

The Britologne Collection’s inclusivity motive has brought in new customers who’ve never heard of the brand.  It has brought in a new generation of consumers who have high expectations and are extremely knowledgeable about artistry in perfumery. The Britologne Collection is doing what we intended it to do.

Chords, Thameen London

What are your favourite notes or accords to work with?

At the start of my career, I preferred dark tones, woods and resin. I’m older now and my taste and style have evolved. I enjoy the sensations of skin and clean tones, light florals and – don’t be shocked – fruity and gourmand accords. I’m learning every single day about ingredients and different ways of combining them.

Technology is forever evolving to enhance our senses. Looking into the future, I’m learning about airy tones and their lyrical nuances and the best ways I can alter the structures to make it my own.

In Thameen, you collaborate with some of the world’s leading noses such as Bruno Jovanovic and Nathalie Lorson, what do you enjoy about building relationships with them?

They are old friends who have known me for a long time since the early stage of my career. Sometimes I wonder if they are more understanding mentors than friends. I’m not the easiest person to work with. But their patience to be explorative in my child-like fantasy approach must be amusing for them.

Building relationships is about having a good laugh and giggle. Most times when we meet up, we don’t even talk about perfumes. We talk about things like musicals, restaurants, vintage watches and cats. I guess this is my new approach in that I find it necessary to be friends first, so I know who they are as people and not as perfumers.

What plans do you have for Thameen and what do the next 10 years look like for you?

Thameen will always be Thameen and I’m sure it will be successful in certain regions and markets, especially in the Middle East.  As for me, I wish to stay being visionary, progressive, inimitable and most important of all, still living up to my reputation as an enfant terrible.

How do you see the world and business of fragrance developing in the next decades?

The world of prestige will be the dominating force. There will be more niche brands coming into the scene, but many will be part of a beauty group from the beginning. As seen in recent years, the practice of niche has become more and more like prestige, especially with marketing. This takes a lot of money.

Customer experience will become more and more gimmicky and digitalised. New brands will be created by Artificial Intelligence with AI founders and creative directors. It’s all about the bottom line. Maybe prestige will reach a creative pinnacle in line with profit. It’s a business after all and everything will be beautiful with progress.

by Caroline Simpson

thameenfragrance.com

The post Glass talks to Christopher Chong, the creative mind behind Thameen London first appeared on The Glass Magazine.

To coincide with the Chance Street Pop-Up, Chanel will debut a film, The Hall Of Mirrors directed by Jean-Pierre Jeunet, which explores the “fairground adventure” of the four Chance girls.

The face of Eau Splendide, Belgian singer-songwriter and actress, Angèle, appears in film as she “ventures into an intriguing new attraction at the fairground: the hall of mirrors, where she attempts to seize her chance in a kaleidoscope of lights and illusions”. 

_{The Chanel Chance Street Pop Up}

Scenes from the film are replicated in the pop-up so you have your own chance to experience the hall of mirrors for yourself. The outside of the immersive Chance Street space is emblazoned with a unique pop art-inspired mural shot through with the purple hues and inspired by the of Eau Splendide.

The Chance Street mural is also inspired by the carefree and exuberant nature  expressed in The Hall Of Mirrors as well as the street art and creative scene of its east London location – just at the top of Brick Lane.

You can drop in to enjoy the immersive Chance Street space during its opening times – there is no need to book. There is also a plethora of “engaging and unexpected” games you can try your luck at, while discovering the complete Chance line as well as the new fragrance. 

The Chance Street space has a fragrance discovery bar where you can experience and discover the whole Chance universe of Chance, Chance Eau Fraîche, Chance Eau Tendre, Chance Eau Vive as well as the new Chance Eau Splendide. 

On some days, guests will be offered complimentary yummy candy floss inspired by the new fragrance. As well as all this, Chanel is offering more services at the pop up.

Chance Beauty Service: 1.15 HR – £60

Book a consultation with a make-up artist to create a personalised make-up look – inspired by the Chance perfumes – whether it’s a Magnetic Look with purple energy, an Audacious Look with golden hues, a Fresh Look of vibrant corals, a Delicate Look consisting of soft pinks and a Bright Look of warm peach tones.

Chance Street Soirée: 1.5 HRS – £60

An evening event takes place in the space on Thursday, May 1 from 6.30pm – 8.30pm where you can explore and discover the Chance fragrances while being entertained by a live DJ and enjoying cocktails and canapés.  You need a ticket for this.

A booking fee is redeemable against product at the pop-up and includes an elevated goodie bag.

by Caroline Simpson

_{The Chanel Chance pop-up is at The Dream Factory, 4 Chance Street, London E1 6JT}

_{Open from 25 April until 5 May 2025: Monday – Saturday: 10:00am – 6:00pm and Sunday: 11:00am – 5:00pm}

The post Chanel opens pop-up in Shoreditch to celebrate Chance Eau Splendide first appeared on The Glass Magazine.

The installation will also be complemented by various other opportunities to experience To My Ships throughout the department store. As well as this, Liberty will be the exclusive partner to launch To My Ships’ second collection – Stand Up Bravely.

_{To My Ships founder and CEO Daniel Bense}

To My Ships was launched last year by London-based and Durban-born, 39-year-old Daniel Bense who has a brilliant and impressive track record in working with innovative and elegant fashion and skincare and brands – having been head of commercial of groundbreaking Australian skincare company Aesop.

“To My Ships is inspired by The Iliad, a desire for cleaner armpits, and an intention to quell olfactory overload,” Bense quips.

_{The Stand Up Bravely range}

The elegantly minimal To My Ships has sustainability at its core as well as the ambition to prioritise “quality and responsibility, we aim to minimise waste and environmental impacts through responsible design and use of resources, the application of a subtractive aesthetic, and an encouragement to reuse, refill and recycle containers.”

_{Stand Up Bravely Marjoram body- and hand-wash £39 for 375ml}

The first collection, entitled Of The Gods Polygonum, comprised of a roll-on and spray-on deodorant; a hand and body wash; as well as eau de parfum. They are all scented with a 99.97 per cent naturally derived fine fragrance, formulated in the “tradition of haute parfumerie. The body wash and sprays are made in chic post-consumer recycled and recyclable aluminium containers. These are also refillable.

_{To My Ships installation in the Atrium at Liberty, London. Photography: Ollie Tomlinson Architects: 10-09 Fabrication MDM}

The second collection Stand Up Bravely launching in Liberty has a more refined, single-scent approach to personal care. It comprises a roll-on deodorant, spray-on deodorant, hand and body wash and eau de parfum. Each product has is scented with  formulated fine perfume and have high percentage of naturally derived and active ingredients.

_{To My Ships installation in the Atrium at Liberty, London. Photography: Ollie Tomlinson Architects: 10-09 Fabrication MDM}

Stand Up Bravely is built around the essential oil of sweet marjoram (Origanum majorama L.), among other botanicals, which has a bosky fresh aroma. As with its first release, you can also refill all the Stand Up Bravely products – apart from the perfume.

Following the installation and a presence in Liberty’s Summer Store, To My Ships’ products will have a permanent home in the store’s glorious Beauty Floor.

by Caroline Simpson

_{The To My Ships’ installation and take over at Libertys runs until 25 May 2025}

The post To My Ships launch with Liberty to celebrate the brand’s second collection: Stand Up Bravely first appeared on The Glass Magazine.

_{NeoRio by Duran Duran X Xerjoff Eau de Parfum (50ml) £265}

Originating in Birmingham, in the UK, and emerging from the New Romantic scene in the 1980s, Duran Duran grew to become huge global superstars. And now, over 40 years later, the four members have worked with Xerjoff founder, Sergio Momo, to create NeoRio and Black Moonlight – fragrances which represent facets of the band.

Luckily, for us, Glass managed to get some sample phials of the two intriguing perfumes.

_{Black Moonlight by Duran Duran X Xerjoff Eau de Parfum (50ml) £265}

Black Moonlight is a rich, boozy, intoxicating and hypnotic scent inspired by Wild Boys, Hungry Like the Wolf side of the band.

It’s an homage to a darker mysterious world that Duran Duran so often explore through their music and videos, with an overdose of patchouli, tolu balm, tonka bean that oozes intrigue and sensuality.

As an added attraction Black Moonlight’s flacon and coffret have lead singer Simon LeBon’s handwritten signature.

_{Duran Duran with Xerjoff founder, Sergio Momo}

Presented in bright and fun neon colours, NeoRio has more of a pina-colada drinking, free-spirited, poolside vibe as soundtracked by Girls on Film, Rio, Planet Earth. It opens with a wonderful rich pineapple plume through which emerge lively and bright notes of absolute rum, Spanish cistus oil; maple syrup, rose oil saffron over rich balsam of Peru, patchouli and tonka bean.

As perfume-ist Sarah McCartney of fragrance house 4160 Tuesdays has quipped, these two scents definitely implore you to “please, please smell me now”.

by Caroline Simpson

The post Xerjoff collaborates with Duran Duran to create two new perfumes first appeared on The Glass Magazine.